French Reds

September 2011

Bordeaux:

2005 Ausone St. Emilion - $24,000.00 cs/6 - Parker 100pts. "A tiny production of just over 1,300 cases will make the 2005 Ausone impossible to find, but proprietor Alain Vauthier continues to exhibit the Midas touch with his perfectionist efforts at this estate. This brilliant, blue/black-hued offering reveals an extraordinarily youthful, but promising nose of incense, blueberries, blackberries, currants, licorice, and crushed rocks. This intense 2005 boasts powerful, super-layered, multidimensional flavors with tremendous extraction, yet they come across as incredibly sublime, even delicate for such a stunningly concentrated, full-bodied effort. A masterpiece of concentration and balance, it will no doubt be drinking well a century from now. Anticipated maturity: 2030-2080+."

2005 Bon Pasteur - $1,599.99 cs/12 ($135.00) - Parker 93-95pts."The incomparable oenologist Michel Rolland has produced his finest Bon Pasteur since the monumental 1982 (which is still drinking well, and out-classes many wines 3 to 4 times its price). This exciting effort boasts aromas and flavors of mocha, fudge ice cream, espresso roast, black cherries, cassis, and caramel. The complex aromatics are followed by an enormously rich, pure, full-bodied wine with fabulous texture and length. It should be drinkable in 5-6 years, and last for 25 or more. A superb effort from this Pomerol estate, the 2005 ranks alongside their outstanding 2000, 1990, and 1982. It exhibits a dense blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary perfume of espresso roast, mocha, blueberries, cassis, and smoky licorice. Full-bodied with sweet tannin, stunning definition, layers of concentration, and the tell-tale freshness and delineation that make 2005 such a singular vintage, it should be drunk between 2009-2023."

2005 Branaire Ducru St.Julien - $1,500.00 cs/12 - Parker 95pts."one of the more distinctive wines of St.-Julien. Proprietor Patrick Maroteaux has turned out another classic. While not as opulent or fleshy as the 2003, and it remains to be seen if it will eclipse the 2000, the 2005 is a big, structured, intensely rich effort with raspberry, blueberry, and spring flower garden characteristics, stunning purity, full-bodied power, and good underlying acidity as well as harmony. The hard tannins suggest 8-9 years of cellaring will be beneficial; it should last for three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.  and Wine Spectator 92-94 pts. and Stephen Tanzer 91-94pts.

2003 Calon Segur $150.00*bot. - Parker 94pts."exhibits a tightly-knit, but promising nose of mulberries, blackberries, cherries, and hints of new oak and truffles. This 60% Cabernet Sauvignon / 40% Merlot blend possesses a gorgeous texture as well as an expansive, exotic softness, and 13% alcohol (according to the proprietor, Madame Denise Gasqueton). Generous and rich, this high class, full-bodied wine will undoubtedly be more approachable than its closest spiritual sibling, the 1982. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2030."

2005 Cantemerle - $50.00*bot. - Parker 90pts. "new proprietors believe in producing delicate, beautifully wrought, finesse-styled wines that require some introspection. The deep ruby-hued 2005 displays aromas of licorice, roasted herbs, sweet cherries, and flowers. In the mouth, the wine seems almost light in comparison to its peers, but it possesses an ethereal seriousness, purity, and overall harmony that are striking for its delicacy and finesse. A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with a tiny dollop of Cabernet Franc, it should be at its finest between 2012-2025+."

2003 Clerc-Milon Pauillac - $750.00 cs/12 (62.50) - Parker 91-93pts."A similar blend to the 2002 (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot), this wine boasts a big, deep purple color and a powerful, sweet nose of caramel, plums, licorice, espresso, scorched earth, and black fruits. Texturally mouth filling, full-bodied, and opulent, it is intense and deep, with plenty of tannin in the finish. This could be one of the finest Clerc-Milons in recent memory if it all comes together as well as my instincts suggest it will. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025."

2005 Cos d'Estournel - $3,500.00 cs/12 ($291.67) - LIMITED - Parker upgraded to 98pts."made from an unusual blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. The Merlot was picked during the last nine days of September, and the Cabernets were finished by the 9th of October. The 2005's 13.85% alcohol is the highest this estate has ever achieved. The implementation of such Burgundian winemaking techniques as malolactic in barrel and aging on its lees are resulting in wines of extraordinary texture as well as elegance. The 2003 may be more opulent, and for my taste a more compelling wine, but the 2005 is at the same level. Made from yields of 40 hectoliters per hectare, it exhibits an inky/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of sweet red and black fruits, camphor, cedar, and pain grille. Extraordinarily well-defined, nuanced, and powerful, with high tannin as well as magnificent texture and richness, this classic offering will be uncommonly long-lived. It will not be close to drinkability for another 5-7 years, and should last for 30 or more. A fabulous wine!"  and again Apr.'07 "A classic in the making, the 2005 Cos has become even more backward and structured, making it one of the most inaccessible examples of this wine made in the last twenty years. There is an unusually high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%) blended with 19% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. The wine boasts a dense purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of creme de cassis intermixed with licorice, pain grille, spice, and cedar. Medium to full-bodied, powerful, rich, and dense, with a sweet middle as well as huge tannins in the finish, it will be approachable in 8-10 years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035+."Parker 93pts. "One of the candidates for wine of the vintage, this beauty has a dense purple color to the rim and a classic, noble nose of graphite intermixed with black currant, spice box, licorice, and red and black fruits. Medium to full-bodied with exceptional precision and definition, this beautifully textured wine stands out as one of the most successful wines of this irregular vintage. A brilliant effort, it should be at its best between 2008 and 2020."

2005 Cos d'Estournel 3 liter - $1,995.00 each NET - LIMITED

2002 Cos d'Estournel -  $99.99*bot. 

2003 Cos d'Estournel - $3,500.00 cs/12 (291.67) - LIKELY WINE of the VINTAGE ! - Parker 98pts. "The prodigious, fantastic 2003 Cos d'Estournel is a candidate for "wine of the vintage." A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon (unusually high for this chateau), 30% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 17,500 cases were produced from low yields. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by a compelling perfume of black fruits, subtle smoke, pain grille, incense, and flowers. With extraordinary richness, full body, and remarkable freshness, elegance, and persistence, this is one of the finest wines ever made by this estate. The good news is that it will be drinkable at a young age yet evolve for three decades or more. Kudos to winemaker Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier."

1996 Ducru Beaucaillou 3 liter $3,000.00 NET. Parker 96pts."I tasted the 1996 Ducru Beaucaillou on four separate occasions from bottle in January. The 1996 is long, with a deep mid-palate. It also reveals tannin in the finish. This wine is remarkable. It is muscular, concentrated, and classic. Bottled in late June, 1998, it exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color, as well as a knock-out nose of minerals, licorice, cassis, and an unmistakable lead pencil smell that I often associate with top vintages of Lafite-Rothschild. It is sweet and full-bodied, yet unbelievably rich with no sense of heaviness or flabbiness. The wine possesses high tannin, but it is extremely ripe, and the sweetness of the black currant, spice-tinged Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is pronounced. This profound, backward Ducru-Beaucaillou is a must purchase. It will be fascinating for readers who own the 1996 to follow the evolution of this exceptional vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2035."

2005 L'Angelus - $4,500.00 cs/12 - Parker 98pts. "upgraded from 96-97" "This 7,000 case blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc will rival or perhaps eclipse vintages such as 2000, 1998, 1990, and 1989. Its dense purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of charcoal, espresso roast, blackberries, blueberries, and a hint of wood. In spite of its thick texture, terrific acidity, high tannins, and enormous intensity as well as richness, it is surprisingly approachable, but given how slowly the 1989 and 1990 have aged, I would recommend cellaring it for 8-10 years. It should keep for three decades. A brilliant wine!"

2002 Lafleur Pomerol - $300.00*bot. Parker 90-92pts."Somewhat of a revelation in a vintage that was obviously difficult in this appellation, Lafleur's 2002 represents the essence of old vines with structured, deep, concentrated flavors. This medium-bodied, dense ruby/purple-colored effort exhibits impressive purity as well as a persistent, long palate offering a kiss of sweet kirsch and licorice. Some jagged tannin needs to be resolved if this wine is to merit a score in the low nineties. However, it will be very long-lived, especially for a Pomerol. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025"  also 89pts."An austerely-styled Lafleur, the 2002 possesses high tannin, a dark ruby/purple color, an angular personality, sweet mineral-infused black cherry fruit, dusty tannins, and considerable grip and structure. There is a certain nobility to the aromatics and flavors, but the dry, hard tannins are cause for concern. Keep a rabbit's foot in your back pocket if you are going to buy this wine, as I have severe reservations about whether it will ever come into balance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016"

2003 Lafleur Pomerol - $9,000.00 OWC/6 ($1,500.00) - Parker 95pts.

2005 Laforge St.Emillion - $1,000.00 cs/12 - Parker upgraded to 95pts. "Tasting far superior than it did from cask, the bottled 2005 Laforge is fabulous. Moreover, there are 2,500 cases of this offering from the brilliant Englishman, Jonathan Malthus, who has proven he can turn quite a qualitative trick in both Bordeaux and Australia's Barossa Valley. This dense purple-hued St.-Emilion offers up a glorious nose of graphite, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, licorice, and a whiff of acacia flowers. Full-bodied, thick, and juicy, this blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc possesses terrific purity, an extravagantly rich mouthfeel, and wonderful precision. The result is a provocative, compelling wine that should be drinkable between 2013-2028." 

2005 La Grave A Pomerol - $600.00 cs/12 (50.00) - Parker 88-90pts. DRINKS EARLY "Stylish and elegant, this 2005 has as much in common with a Cote de Beaune premier cru as it does with a Pomerol. Kirsch, raspberry, seaweed, and loamy soil aromas lead to a medium-bodied, finesse-styled claret possessing sweet tannin, pure fruit, and a sensual personality. It begs to be consumed over the next decade." and "A strong effort from this generally elegant, light-bodied, finesse-styled cuvee, the 2005 exhibits more depth than normal along with deep raspberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with licorice and resiny pine forest notes. Sweet tannin, a velvety texture, impressive ripeness, and more stuffing and structure than usual suggest it can be enjoyed over the next 10-15 years." and "The best effort from this endearing, charming Pomerol since the 1982, the deep plum/ruby-tinged 2005 offers sweet, ripe, cassis, and cherry fruit intermixed with spice box, herb, and loamy soil notes. The wine's lovely sweetness, ripe tannin, supple texture, and plush finish suggest this sleeper of the vintage will drink well during its first 10-12 years of life."

2003 Lascombes Margaux 3 liter - $350.00 NET - Parker 92-95pts."Perhaps the finest Lascombes ever made and a wine that recalls the opulent, viscous, almost Port-like 1947s and 1949s, the 2003 boasts an inky purple color as well as a gorgeously sweet nose of flowers, blackberries, cassis liqueur, graphite and incense. Exotic with impressive intensity, marvelous viscosity, and tremendous purity and depth, this is a tour de force in winemaking and one of the stars of the vintage. Last year I thought this was the best Lascombes I had ever tasted, but it has put on even more weight and seems destined to be a superstar. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025+."

2002 Leoville Las Cases - $1,500.00 - SALE $1,350.00 cs/12(112.00) - Parker 94-97pts."A sensational effort from proprietor Jean-Hubert Delon, the 2002 Leoville Las-Cases (a blend of 66.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% Merlot, 13.9% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot) possesses the highest natural alcohol of any vintage produced at Las Cases (a whopping 13.5%, compared to 2000's 12.9%, 1982's 12.8%, and 1990's 13.2%). Yields were a low 27 hectoliters per hectare. Approximately 43% of the production made it into the 2002. The wine has tremendously high measurements of extract and phenolics. The color is nearly black/purple, and the wine looks like syrup of Leoville Las-Cases. Dense, concentrated, broodingly backward as well as tannic, but oh, so promising and intense, the 2002 reveals tremendous purity, great intensity, and a finish that lasts for 45 seconds. Clearly Leoville Las-Cases has produced a wine of first-growth quality (what's new?) that competes for the wine of the vintage moniker. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+"

2005 Leoville Poyferre - $1,300.00 cs/12 - Parker 92-95pts. - "While perhaps not up to the standards of the extraordinary 2003, the 2005 is still a strong effort from an estate that has been doing everything right over the last two decades. Sweet toasty oak intermixed with jammy black currant, plum, and licorice aromas jump from the glass of this dense purple-hued wine. In the mouth, there is great fruit, tannin, body, structure, and delineation. This impressively endowed, well made St.-Julien will require considerable patience (as will most 2005 northern Medocs). Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+."

2005 Margaux $9,500.00 cs/6 OWC & Security Banded. Parker 98pts."Another celestial effort from Paul Pontallier and Corinne Mentzelopoulus, the 2005 Margaux, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, boasts a dense opaque blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and, despite its having spent two years in 100% new wood, only a subtle touch of toasty oak. Although full-bodied, the wine seems light on its feet because of the silky tannins as well as the great gravel terroir from which it comes. Beautiful purity, length, and nobility define this modern day classic. Is it better than the 2000, 1996, 1990, or some of the vintages from the decade of the eighties? Who knows, but it is unquestionably one of the all-time great wines made at Chateau Margaux. This estate has produced only exceptional wines over the last three decades. The seamlessness of the 2005 suggests it will perform well early, but it should last for a half century or more. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2050+."

2005 Marquis D'Alesme Becker (Margaux) - $499.99 cs/12 (41.67) - WS 91pts."A soft, fruity wine, with blackberry, coffee and light vanilla on the nose and palate. Full, with very velvety tannins and a long, flavorful finish. This is right on the mark now. Best after 2010. 5,830 cases made."

2003 Montrose - $3,500.00 cs/12 ($291.67) - Parker 97-100pts. "Certainly one of the vintage's most colossal wines and clearly one of the estate's greatest efforts, rivaling the 1989, 1990, and 2000, this wine, which tips the scales at 13% alcohol (the 1990 was 13.5%), has an amazingly opaque purple color to the rim, and a big, sweet, exotic nose of blackberry liqueur intermixed with acacia flower, creme de cassis, smoke, and hints of truffle and vanilla. In the mouth the wine is full-bodied, opulent, but offers surprising definition and finesse, which is something it was showing less of nine months ago. Brilliantly delineated in spite of its amazing concentration and unctuosity, this is a thrilling, exceptional effort that should prove to be a modern-day legend. I tend to think this wine will actually be approachable in 5-6 years but capable of lasting for at least three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2030+. To reiterate what I said last year, this is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot."

2005 Mouton Rothschild 750mls. & Magnums - $12,000.00 cs/6 - Parker 94-96pts."a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc which tips the scales at 13.2% alcohol, one of the highest percentages ever achieved at this estate. It does not possess the power or awesome depth of the 1986 or 1982, but it may represent a modern-day clone of the 1955. A tannic, backward, concentrated, powerful Mouton built for the ages, it will require 10-15 years to reach its full potential. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by classic notes of creme de cassis and smoke, but no trace of new oak. That in itself is a good indication of how rich and concentrated this wine must be to have absorbed all its oak at this stage of its evolution. One might also term it 1996-like in style given its fresh acidity and bright personality. Medium to full-bodied, impeccably elegant, powerful yet subtle and reticent at present, it will be extremely long-lived. Maturity: 2015-2050+"

2005 Pape Clement Pessac-Leognan - $3,500.00 cs/12 -  Parker 96-100pts. "The possible perfection of this effort is not surprising given the way proprietor Bernard Magrez has been upgrading all of his estates, especially his flagship property, Pape-Clement. Over the last decade there has been a succession of brilliant wines from this terroir that is essentially sandwiched in a suburb of Bordeaux. The quintessential Pape-Clement, the 2005 is a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon cropped at 38 hectoliters per hectare. Its dense plum/purple color is followed by a seductive perfume of crushed rocks, blueberries, raspberries, cedar, graphite, licorice, and smoke. Full-bodied and layered, it possesses blockbuster richness yet an ethereal delicacy and finesse that often seem incompatible, but the fresh acids, high tannins, and marvelous extract of the 2005 Bordeaux have all come together to produce something special, but that will require patience. This wine has some of the more supple, sweeter tannins of Bordeaux, but then again, it is a Pessac-Leognan, not a Medoc, and the percentage of Merlot is high for the vintage. I would anticipate this 2005 to be approachable around 2012, and last for 30+ years."

2002 Pichon Lalande - $99.99*bottle. Parker 94pts. "One of the best wines of the vintage, this is a classic Pauillac that is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot. Dense ruby/purple in color with a glorious nose of melted licorice, lavender, barbecue smoke, black currants, and graphite, the wine is tannic, classically structured with an opaque ruby/purple color, beautiful definition, and a 1996-ish personality. This deep, full-bodied, elegant yet powerful 2002 should age handsomely for over two decades. Some patience will be required since this vintage exhibits more muscle and virility than normal. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025."  Stephen Tanzer 91-94pts."Very pretty, floral aromas of black currant, blackberry, spice and mint. Juicy, floral, percise, yet densely packed, firm acidity which give the flavors clarity ... suave, inner-mouth energt, excellent palate coverage."  Wine Spectator 92-94pts.

2003 Pichon Longueville Baron - $1,100.00 cs/12(91.67) - Parker 92-94pts."A powerful, concentrated wine with an inky ruby/purple color to the rim and high alcohol (13.46%), this low-acid, fat, fleshy wine shows notes of incense, smoke, creme de cassis, and vanilla in a pure, rich, noble, yet corpulent, full-bodied style that could possibly pass as New World Cabernet given its low acidity and forward style. I have no reservations about how it is going to age as there is plenty of stuffing and density to this impressively endowed wine.Maturity: 2007-2023."

2005 Pichon Longueville Baron - $2,250.00cs/12 - Parker 94pts."As usual, this superb Pauillac possesses an inky/blue/black color in addition to a big, sweet nose of graphite, charcoal, burning embers, black currant liqueur, and toasty vanillin from new oak casks. Full-bodied with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, the 2005 Pichon Baron is more backward than the blockbuster 2003 or prodigious 2000. Nevertheless, it is a superb effort whose power, length, and tannic structure suggest it should be at its peak between 2015-2035"

2002 Pontet Canet - $49.99*bot. Tanzer 89-93pts."Black fruits, licorice, bitter chocolate, leaft cab notes on nose. Dense, sweet and very fresh, sharply delineated flavors of cassis, licorice, flowers, and herbs. Broad chewy tannins, firm but not hard." also WS 92-94pts.

1995 Sociando-Mallet Medoc - $75.00*bot. Parker 90pts."This accessible, yet tannic example of Sociando-Mallet possesses a deep ruby/purple color, and excellent aromatics consisting of jammy black cherries, blackberries, and cassis, as well as subtle notes of minerals, earth, and new oak. This is a deep, long, muscular, tannic wine that is structurally similar to the 1996. Patience will be required from purchasers of this high class wine. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025."

2006 Wine Maker's Collection Cuvee #2 - $399.99 cs/12 - Parker 90-92pts. "Professor Dubourdieu fashioned a dense ruby/purple-hued wine displaying notes of black cherries, cassis, licorice, grilled bread, as well as earth. More structured than the 2005 wine, with less sweet tannins, it is richly fruity, deep, medium to fully bodied, and impressively endowed. Should drink well for 15 more years. These wines are meant to be a cinematic study of the same terroir with the individual philosophy of the wine maker imprinted on the vintage."

BURGUNDY:

2005 Bonnes Mares Vincent Girardin - $350.00*bot.  A heavenly wine worth every penny - under rated by Burghound at 91-94pts. "Tasting note: Mild reduction and blue and black fruit aromas plus ample violet notes introduce big, sappy and mouth coating flavors and this is a powerful wine where you can feel the energy build to an explosive and penetrating finish. What it isn't is overly precise but it was evident that caught this when it was at an awkward stage and thus a more harmonious whole is likely to be forthcoming in bottle." - Producer note: Despite Vincent Girardin telling me for the last two years that he was in the process of cutting back his red wine offerings, essentially citing difficulties with finding top quality juice at reasonable prices, he appears to have rethought this strategy with the 2005 vintage. In fairness to Girardin, who is mostly a négociant though he does own some pinot-based vineyards, he again cut back his production in 2006 so my guess is that in vintages where there is good customer acceptance, he'll offer more wines and in more difficult vintages, fewer. The fundamental problem with that strategy of course is that few really top grape sources will sell to you only in fine vintages because otherwise they face the same problem, e.g. a moving and highly variable supply and demand mechanism. While Girardin historically has made a commercially styled wine, the last few vintages really do seem to corroborate what he's saying about wanting to make more classically styled wines. And to this end he told me that he "used up to 60% of the stems in his wine from the Côte de Nuits and up to 30% in those from the Côte de Beaune. 2005 is an aristocratic vintage that isn't at all fruity or forward and thus I did long but soft vinifications with no punch downs, only pump overs. And I'm also doing a long élevage as well with less new wood too, which is to say between 30 and 40%. For me 2005 is a great vintage, even better than 1999 and I believe the wines, both red and white, will age extremely well." While the Girardin reds are still mildly commercial, it's much more subtle than it once was and this is a fine set of wines, indeed when taken as a group the best that I have ever seen from him." 

2005 Clos de la Roche Vieilles-Vignes Grand Cru Ponsot - $1,295.00 bottle NET -Burghound 99pts."All the superb and dramatic complexity that this displayed from barrel has made it into bottle as an extremely ripe and fantastically broad nose soars from the glass, merging seamlessly into dense, pure rich and powerful flavors that are opulent, sweet and dripping with so much extract and sap that the combination stains and saturates the palate on the hugely proportioned yet impeccably balanced finish that is so long that it doesn't seem possible. Given how many reference standard vintages Domaine Ponsot has produced of the Clos de la Roche over the years, it would be presumptuous to anoint this as the best ever but if it isn't, it will certainly take its rightful place among the very greatest. In sum, a 'wow' wine that makes you shake your head in sheer amazement. However be aware that this is a buy and forget wine as it will require at least 15 years to shed its considerable tannins and it will see 50 years without difficulty."

2005 Corton Grand Cru Rouge Clos des Fietres Michel Picard - $90.00*bot. Price is a Real Steal ! - "Elegant complex bouquet of fresh red fruits with grey pepper aromas. Leather nuances appear with bottle age. Well structured and built, suprisingly supple in the mouth with very silky and slightly thin tannins."

2003 Griotte Chambertin Pontsot Magnums - $650.00*each - Burghound 92pts. "Tasting note: This has changed dramatically in bottle as it was quite jammy from cask yet now it has both freshened and brightened. A ripe nose of cherry compote leads to juicy, rich and firm flavors that are also fresh and possess good lift on the long and sappy finish. This is quite firmly structured yet the tannins are buried beneath massive quantities of sap. A superb effort of marvelous complexity and the star of the show chez Ponsot in '03. Note: from a .90 ha parcel.

2003 Morey des Griever V.V.(old vines) Pontsot Magnums  $150.00*each - Burghound 86-88pts.(should be 90+pts.) "Tasting note: Strong reduction completely hides the nose but the flavors are remarkably fresh and bright in the mouth with a textured and relatively fine finish underpinned by firm tannins. This is racy for the vintage. Note: from parcels in the premier cru portion of Monts Luisants and others scattered around Morey. Producer note: As is his usual practice, Laurent Ponsot was one of the very latest growers to pick, telling me that he didn't start until "September 7th. Nothing was normal this year but the '03s are absolutely fantastic. The hardest thing to do was not to get excessively jammy wines. Amazingly, one of my neighbors picked his Clos de la Roche on August 14th yet I didn't pick mine until September 14! His sugar readings were only 10.5% - I know because I asked. There was rain on August 31st and it saved us because it jump started the cycle of photosynthesis all over again and  because of the small crop, we gained a lot of sugar quickly. By waiting the extra month, all of my wines came in between 13 and 14%, which is where they should be. Our yields however were abysmal as we realized fully two-thirds less than a normal crop, and I already crop low. I didn't chaptalize and I absolutely did not acidify. Besides, acidities went up during the fermentation as the dried berries released acidity into the musts. And I'm proud to say that I did the same amount of punching down as usual and I didn't alter the total cuvaison either. I also have not racked the wines at all but I will bottle them a good deal earlier than usual, which is to say January rather than July. Some wines are not reviewed, most notably the Clos St. Denis Vieilles Vignes because there was only one barrel and as Ponsot correctly notes, "what am I going to top up with if I keep offering samples?"

2003 Morey St. Denis Alouettes Ponsot Magnums - $350.00*each - Burghound 89pts.(Greatly undervalued) "Tasting note: A fresh, bright and very pinot nose introduces precise and pretty flavors that offer good volume, excellent depth and concentration as well as fine length, all wrapped in fine but firm finishing tannins. A lovely effort recommended. Note: this is now 100% from Monts Luisants and not young vines Clos de la Roche. 

2005 Ponsot Estate Assortment Collector's Case $13,999.99 cs/12 (Unique presentation case with clear etched top showing all bottles in the case) 'contains 1 x Chambertin, 1 x Griottes Chambertin, 2 x Chapelle Chambertin (RP93-95pts.), 2 x Charmes Chambertin, 2 x Clos Vougeot V.V., 2 x Clos de la Roche V.V.(BH99pts.), 2 x Clos St Denis Centenaire(BH96-98pts.):

Burghound "As is his usual practice, Laurent Ponsot was one of the last growers to begin picking reporting that he began on "September 27th. 2005 was an easy vintage where everything pretty much went exactly as planned. There was no rot, no hail, no pests, no excess production to guard against and essentially perfect ripeness. Seriously, it was like a dream vintage. Sugars were between 13.5 and 14%, which means no chaptalization and yields hovered around 25 hl/ha and could not have been any cleaner. For me, the 2005s are a blend of 1985 and 1990, which means that they should be great as I love both of those vintages." I have to completely agree with Ponsot as he's right, the Domaine hit homeruns in both 1985 and 1990. And while the vintages of the '90s proved inconsistent for Ponsot, he really hasn't missed since 1999. Indeed, in 2005 he has produced simply stunning wines that are among the very best of the vintage and his 2004s are also strikingly good in the context of that vintage though they do not rival his '05s. In summary, do not miss the Ponsot '05s as they are "sell the house, sell the spouse, sell the dog" this kind of good!

RHONE et al:

2004 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge - $480.00 cs/6 - Parker 93pts."One of the great successes of the vintage and certainly better than their 2003 is Beaucastel's 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape. Deep ruby/purple in color with loads of licorice, smoked game, black cherry and blackberry fruit, along with incense and truffle, the wine has fabulous richness, high tannin, medium to full body, and beautiful length, richness, and purity. This is a beauty and one of the vintage's finest wines. Give it 4-6 years of bottle age and drink it over the next 25+ years. It has the potential to be one of the longest-lived Chateauneuf du Papes of the vintage."

2003 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge - $799.99 cs/12(66.67) - Parker 91-93pts."Much like it was in 1998, the blend for Beaucastel's 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape includes more Grenache (50%) since that varietal was both consistent and of high quality. The balance is 20% Mourvedre, and 30% such varietals as Syrah and Counoise. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by an earthy style, moderately high levels of tannin, and neither the suppleness nor forward flamboyance of the 2000 or 2001. Dense, full-bodied, and structured, the 2003 is clearly a vin de garde. It will require 5-6 years of bottle age, and should drink well for 15-18. " 

2004 Beaucastel Hommage a Jacques Perrin - 750mls. (MDA6-Fairway) - $2,250.00 cs/6 - Parker 96-100pts."It is only made in the top vintages, but the very limited cuvee of 500 or so cases of Hommage a Jacques Perrin, which is a wine with 60% Mourvedre and the rest the other permitted varietals, primarily Grenache, Syrah, Counoise, and some Vaccarese, was produced in both 2005 and 2004. The 2004 is potentially one of the legendary Jacques Perrin cuvees since the debut vintage of 1989. The potentially perfect 2004 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin has turned out to be just an amazing wine and one of the profound examples of this cuvee the Perrins have produced. It certainly has all the power, density, and richness of the great years, but there is almost a surreal elegance and lightness for a wine this powerful and dense. Almost difficult to describe, the gorgeous multi-layered texture, and the heavenly perfume of smoked meats, flowers, blueberries, blackberries, creosote, and truffles is a knock-out. In the mouth, it is medium to full-bodied with incredible intensity, purity, and overall symmetry. There's nothing out of place in this remarkable wine, and it seems somewhat approachable already, yet it will no doubt have the uncanny ability to age for 25-40+ years."

2004 Chateau d'Ampuis Cote Rotie Guigal - $999.99 cs/6 - Parker 91pts."one of the finest wines from this challenging vintage. The acidity is there, but there is no evidence of dilution. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of bacon fat, graphite, licorice, and smoke, beautiful fruit, medium to full body, and a long finish. Consume it over the next 12-15 years." 

2002 Chateau d'Ampuis Cote Rotie Guigal $150.00*bot Parker 86-89pts."The component parts of the 2002 Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis merited scores ranging from 85 to 88, so even here there is a degree of austerity, leanness, and lack of flavor ripeness and maturity that could not be overcome even by a master winemaker and producer such as Marcel Guigal. It will be moderately weighty and herbal, with a good bouquet, but little flavor and texture. Drink it during its first 5-6 years of life."

2007 Cotes du Rhone 45 Parallel JABOLUET - $119.99cs/12.  Wine Spectator 87pts."The 2006 red wines have been marked by powerful, ripe tannins; rich colors and aromas; noticeable minerality; excellent balance enhanced by prominent acidity; and great overall depth and complexity on the palate. For both reds and whites, 2006 produced a clear and well-balanced vintage at Jaboulet. Very pure and fresh, with purple and blue fruits leading the way, followed by notes of tar, violets and mineral."  and "Solid, with fresh plum, violet and grilled herb notes, all backed by an iron-tinged finish. Drink now." -James Molesworth, Wine Spectator, Mar. 31, 2008

2005 Hermitage Ex Voto Rouge Guigal - $450.00*bot. - Parker 96-100pts."spent 42 months in 100% new oak, possesses a blue/black color as well as a gorgeous perfume of black fruits, and a full-scale attack with huge glycerin, density, extraction, and tannin. This muscular blockbuster will benefit from 8-10 years of cellaring, and should keep for 50 years."

2005 St.Joseph Vignes de l'Hospice - $150.00*bot. - Parker 94-96pts."One can only imagine what Guigal has done with the 2005 St.-Joseph Vignes des Hospices. This is as profound as the 2003, but in a completely different style, with more acidity, enormous body like the 2003, but not the unctuosity or up-front appeal of that vintage. The 2005 reveals a black/purple color and a gorgeous nose of graphite, creme de cassis, incense, smoke, and spice. Very tannic, with moderately high acidity, and huge extract and richness, this is a monster wine that has more in common with a top cuvee of regular Hermitage than with St.-Joseph. I suspect this wine will need 8-10 years of cellaring, and keep 30-40 years. In that sense, it is more along the lines of the limited production cuvee of Chapoutier's St.-Joseph Les Granits."

2005 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit Rouge Guigal - $75.00*bot. - Parker 92pts."The full-bodied, dense 2005 St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit St.-Joseph exhibits a similar deep ruby/purple color as well as a beautiful perfume of licorice, subtle smoke, blue and black fruits, crushed rocks, and spring flowers. A superb example of St.-Joseph, it will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and should keep for 15 or more years"

* Deduct 5% from bottle price 

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